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Tuesday, May 29, 2007

The Crazy Elbow

Just before one of my first trips to Paris (circa 2001), a then-colleague recommended a small place in the Marais, Le Coude Fou, for dinner. Based on her recommendation, honey P. and I and six of our friends sought out the bistro for what could best be described as an average evening. Laurie asked how we liked the restaurant, and I gingerly told her the truth. She, in turn, apologized and explained that the restaurant held a special place in her heart--it was the scene the first date with her husband. And suddenly it all made sense, the fact that the memory made the meal.

Laurie has her crazy elbow, I have Bistro 110.

The restaurant opened up the summer that I graduated from high school. It was the first place I went, on my own, with a book and a pocketful of cash and the intent to take myself out for a wonderful, solitary meal. And it became the place for a series of firsts and lasts and onlys: my first glass of wine (Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio), my first cassoulet, a series of birthdays leading up to 21, the last place I shared a meal with the wife of a long-lost friend, the only place where I’ve enjoyed drinks with most all of the people dearest to me. Honey P. says that the Bistro is vin ordinaire, but I mildly protest. The food is good and reasonable, the wine list serviceable. And while a lot has changed in the last almost-20 years, it still feels like the freshly minted bistro I entered in the summer of 1987. And any place that has the power to trigger such good memories ...

Incidentally, I went back to Le Coude Fou in 2005, one of the last days of my last trip to Paris--a warm afternoon all to myself during which I wandered around the city with my journal and a pocketful of Amex. I found the restaurant again by accident and decided to buy myself a nice, quiet lunch. My journal entry from that afternoon ended abruptly as the waiter brought my wine and soup and salad. And while the details of the meal escape me (white or red, cream- or broth-based, mache or romaine or butter or frisee?), I remember that it was lovely.

Molly Stevens Cooks … in Woodstock

Given my partiality to All About Braising, it shouldn’t be a surprise that I’m delighted to host a cooking class and reception with Molly Stevens on 17 June. She’ll be teaching recipes from her book followed by a reception and book signing. Proceeds from both events will benefit the Vermont Fresh Network, an organization that links farmers, food producers, and chefs to each other and to consumers.

From 3:00-4:30, Molly will teach a number of dishes from All About Braising. At the reception from 5:00-7:00, guests will enjoy these dishes along with food contributed by highly regarded local restaurants. These include osteria pane e salute in Woodstock [my local favorite, as I wrote here]; The Inn at Weathersfield in Weathersfield, VT; The Woodstock Farmers’ Market [my favorite place for lunch!]; and wines from Vermont Wine Merchants. Since the intention is to showcase Vermont products, chicken for the class will be contributed by Misty Knoll Farms and beef by Wood Creek Farm.

The cost for the cooking class plus the reception is $100; for the reception only, $75. Attendance at both the cooking class and the reception is limited. For more information, or to sign up, please send me .

Molly Stevens is a highly acclaimed food writer, editor and cooking teacher who lies in Northern Vermont. In 2006, she was honored by the International Association of Culinary Professionals as Cooking Teacher of the Year. All About Braising: The Art of Uncomplicated Cooking (WW Norton) won a 2005 James Beard Foundation award and an International Association of Culinary Professionals award. Molly has been described in the New York Times Book Review as “a beautifully clear writer.” Food & Wine magazine listed her braising book as one of the top 10 cookbooks of 2004. Molly’s articles and recipes appear regularly in Fine Cooking, Bon Appétit, and other magazines.

The Vermont Fresh Network encourages farmers, food producers and chefs to work directly with each other to build partnerships. Building these regional connections contributes to stronger local communities and their economies. VFN also works to educate consumers about Vermont-grown foods.

Monday, May 28, 2007

Life in Zero Gravity

I love those Corona commercials where you see the sand, beach, sky, and lime, It’s a fantasy I heartily endorse. Now, truth be told, I can’t tolerate temps above 80 degrees, I refuse to be seen in a swimsuit, and Corona tends to bloat me. But a bottle of Goose Island’s Pere Jacques and an afternoon reclining in our LaFuma zero gravity chairs while watching planes follow the lakeward flight pattern to O’Hare was vacation enough. Happy holiday weekend!

Sunday, May 27, 2007

Mmm, Henry

”Your patience will be rewarded.” So reads the menu at m.henry on Clark in Andersonville. And I’m not inclined to agree on the weekends during which the lines stretch down the street and it’s much more fun to cackle at and mock the hungry throngs waiting desperately for toast and coffee. But HOT DAMN! on weekdays I can’t imagine a better place to have a breakfast or brunch or lunch. I was there recently for a power meal--I had fannie’s killer fried egg sandwich, a concoction of toasted sour boule layered with two over-medium eggs, applewood bacon, sliced tomatoes, gorgonzola, & fresh thyme and served with house potatoes. A plate of heaven, for $7.95. See you there. But not on Saturday. 

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Go, Charles!

Charles Foulkes of Crust Bread just got written up in the New York Times. Go, Charles!